Istanbul Is an Endless City
From Anatolia to Rumeli, Istanbul keeps growing, filled with places many of us have not seen or even heard of. But how much of Istanbul lives in these distant places? Istanbul is the Bosphorus. It is the Historical Peninsula. Or isn’t it? Perhaps the real Istanbul is hidden in the oldest districts, each carrying a hint of the past while remaining full of life. Kanlıca is one of those old districts that still shows us a more familiar Istanbul.
Although it is no longer exactly the Kanlıca remembered by older generations, it remains a corner that has managed to escape the menace of unification slowly taking hold of the city. Its streets still carry the feeling of the old city with the grocery store, the greengrocer, and the hairdresser. Seen from the water, it is also one of the pleasant stops along a Bosphorus Cruise, where the shoreline still reveals the village character that once defined so many Bosphorus neighborhoods.
Kanlica and Its Old Names
Kanlıca lies along the inlet bordered by Çubuklu to the north and Anadoluhisarı to the south. It is part of Beykoz. Kanlıca Inlet, once called Phiela, lies just to the south. This bay, at the meeting point of Bülbül Deresi and the sea, brings to mind the moon festivals organized in the 19th century.
Although Kanlıca had its heyday in the rising period of the Ottoman Empire, life in this region dates back to ancient ages. The area was once called “Glarus,” meaning “seagull.” In the Byzantine period, it was known as “Elasos” or “Olasos.” There are also several rumors about the origin of its current name.
Kanglı, Kanglıca, Kanlıca
One story says that kağnı (ox-carts) were made in this region. According to this rumor, Kanlıca came from “kanglıca,” which itself came from “kanglı,” meaning “small car.” Another rumor claims that the pinkish milk obtained from cows grazing on a kind of red grass on the skirts of Kanlıca was called “kanglı,” and that this word became “Kanlıca” over time. Even more interesting is the rumor that the color of the famous Kanlıca yoghurt was once nearly pink.
Today, visitors often reach the area by ferry or road, especially while exploring the Bosphorus line between places such as Beylerbeyi Palace and Rumeli Fortress. This setting helps explain why Kanlıca still feels separate from the rush of central Istanbul.
Kanlica Yoghurt of Centuries
Kanlıca is so strongly identified with its yoghurt that Istanbulites think of Kanlıca when yoghurt is mentioned, and of yoghurt when Kanlıca is mentioned. Macurlar Neighborhood, on the outskirts of the town where yoghurt producers once settled, was known as the “yoghurt makers’ neighborhood.”
It is said that Hüseyin Reis Effendi, one of the local people, was the first to introduce this yoghurt to the neighborhood. Yet the person who made it famous was İsmail Hakkı Bey, the owner of İsmail Ağa Kahvesi. What carried its fame to other towns was the castor sugar sprinkled on top of the yoghurt.
Over time, however, the production facilities were closed one by one. Today, there is only one place said to make Kanlıca yoghurt in the traditional way: Kanlıca Doğa Yoğurdu. This is the legacy of Sabri Bey, who played an important role in improving Kanlıca yoghurt. The owners changed a few times after Sabri Bey’s death, but the tradition remains. In the shop opposite the pier, both daily production and sales are made.
If you are planning a visit, it may be useful to check current ferry options through the official Şehir Hatları website. For more background on the district and its historical names, you can also consult Wikipedia.
Why Kanlıca Still Matters
What makes Kanlıca memorable is not only its yoghurt or its Bosphorus location. It is also the sense of continuity found in its streets, shops, and shoreline. In a city that changes rapidly, Kanlıca still offers a glimpse of an older rhythm. That is why it remains one of the districts that helps define the quieter, more intimate side of Istanbul.
