You may reach Büyükada by sea bus or ferry from Kadıköy, Bostancı, Sirkeci, and Kabataş. Although a sea bus may save time, the ferry remains an essential part of the experience. Watching Istanbul recede while you sip tea and share a simit with the seagulls is part of the island mood. For current routes and times, check the official Şehir Hatları website before you go.
One Day in Büyükada: Start at the Pier
As soon as you leave the historic buildings at the port of Büyükada, the island begins to work its spell. The fresh air is immediate. Before setting out, a generous breakfast at Café Pasticceria, just to the left of the clock tower, can prepare you for the rest of the day. While you eat, you may decide whether to continue your tour by bicycle or head out along the island roads in one of the traditional ways still remembered in older Büyükada stories.
We began from the Maden District with 70-year-old Mustafa Çınar, who had not left Büyükada except for military service. Our first target was Hagia Yorgi Church. On the way, it is impossible not to notice the authentic Büyükada houses and the colorful flowers in their gardens. Mustafa Bey warned us not to praise them too early: the famous mansions of Nizam District were still ahead.
Continuing along the seaside road, you pass Naki Bey Beach and the Büyükada Water Sports Club. Here is a small tip: if you buy the rose-shaped handmade ice creams, buy them in Büyükada from the peddlers in front of the Water Sports Club. Just before Hagia Yorgi Church, you will also see the house of Reşat Nuri Güntekin, one of the prominent names of Turkish literature.
Hagia Yorgi and the Hilltop View
The square at the beginning of the uphill road to Hagia Yorgi Church has the lively feeling of a festival ground. Pines, lunch-break crowds, and the movement around the ascent create a colorful scene. You may go up on foot, but be prepared: the road is steep and long.
The church sits on 202-meter-high Yüce Tepe and can be described in one word: fabulous. On the right are the houses where the priests stayed and the monastery, now closed. On the left is Yüce Tepe Casino, where you can stop for snacks. From every side, the Marmara Sea flashes in the light, and across the way you can see Hristos (Jesus) Hill, the other of Büyükada’s two hills.
There is a strong belief that wishes made at Hagia Yorgi Church come true. That is why you may notice small objects such as watches and necklaces in the glass case at the entrance—thank-you offerings from people whose wishes, it is said, were granted. It is also believed that the holy water in the church has healing effects, and there are local rumors about paralyzed people walking down Yüce Tepe on foot. After making wishes and lighting votive candles, many visitors stop at Yüce Tepe Casino for meat dishes and handmade wines.
Under the Pine Trees
After coming down from Hagia Yorgi Church, continue with a 20-minute walk through a forest filled with pine trees and birdsong. This stretch is one of the quietest and most memorable parts of the island. Along the way, you can see the Greek Orphanage, long known as “the biggest wooden building in the world.” Though vacant for decades, it still stands with monumental presence.
Nearby, chickens, sheep, and fruit trees now occupy the grounds of Hristos Monastery. In the small graveyard near the monastery are the graves of workers involved in its construction and the priests who served there. If you want background on the island’s past, the Büyükada entry on Wikipedia offers a useful overview before or after your trip.
Love Is Different in Büyükada
From Hristos Monastery, you may continue toward Nizam District. On this side of the island, we especially recommend a walk along Aşıklar Yolu (Lovers Way) and out toward Dilburnu. We did exactly that. After a peaceful walk under the pines, we drank tea at Aşıklar Casino overlooking the sea. In a place so completely surrounded by pines, the dominant feeling is simple: peace.
If you want to cool off during your walk, head to Prenses Koyu (Princess Bay) on the left or to Yörük Ali Beach, reached by boat. While you are in this part of Büyükada, see Con Pasha Mansion, built in the Ottoman period, and the Arap İzzet Pasha Mansion, where Leon Trotsky stayed. This is also where Mustafa Bey’s earlier warning proves correct. The mansions of Nizam District, with their architecture and carefully kept colorful gardens, really do make you feel as if the princesses of old stories might still be living behind the gates.
Time to Miss the Ferry
Time passes unnoticed in Büyükada. By late afternoon, the streets become busier as everyone starts thinking about the return. If you are lucky, you may find a ride back toward the pier and stop at Yıldızlar Casino, just opposite the landing, to watch the sunset. This is often the moment when Büyükada becomes hardest to leave.
You see the ferry approaching slowly and suddenly do not want to board at all. Missing the ferry on purpose feels strangely tempting here. As noted in the original island rhythm of this trip, there are ferries from Büyükada to Bostancı until 12:30 a.m., so the day can stretch into dinner without too much hurry. Still, always check the latest schedule on the official site before relying on a late departure.
If you decide to stay, there are both small and large guesthouses on the island. Among the best-known options mentioned here are Hotel Prenses Büyükada and Hotel Splendid Palace. We also recommend Hagia Nikola Pension at Hagia Nikola Bay for its atmosphere and view. If you return to the city the same evening, you might also continue your Istanbul trip with classics such as the Bosphorus Cruise or a visit to the Galata Tower.
What to Eat in Büyükada
It is difficult to choose among the restaurants lined up near the pier. Fish and meat dishes are plentiful, and the setting does much of the work. A special recommendation is Milto Restaurant, in service since 1935, for calamari and octopus. Raise a toast to Istanbul as it greets you across the water in the evening light.
One of the common traditions of Büyükada nights is buying a cone of ice cream and walking by the sea. For dessert after dinner, you may stop by Prinkipo Ice Cream next to the ferry landing or Roma Ice Cream, which has been in service for three generations. From there, walk from Kenan Evren Park toward the Water Sports Club, and if you are lucky, join the concerts at Turing Culture House. Later, with only the sound of horseshoes and the quieter streets left to the island residents, the night gains its own charm.
Return to Istanbul
If you spend the night, open the windows in the morning and enjoy the fresh island air with its green-and-blue view. On the way back, remember to buy hardtacks, Iranian buns, and cookies flavored with cinnamon and gum mastic from Büyükada Bakery. That last stop is a fitting end to a day shaped by peace, pleasure, fun, and fresh air.
One day in Büyükada is enough to understand why the island remains one of Istanbul’s most beloved escapes, yet not nearly enough to feel finished with it. What has been told here is only part of the experience; the rest is hidden in Büyükada’s own quiet beauty.
