The island was known as “Halki” because of the copper mine on it, and it came to be called “Heybeliada” because it resembles a saddlebag. Arriving at the pier, the island feels full of memory. The old inhabitants seem to pass before your eyes: perhaps Aziz Nesin in his shorts, perhaps Ahmet Rasim or Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar nearby, perhaps Orhan Pamuk in the shade of a tree, or İsmet İnönü walking with a crowd around him. Yet Heybeliada is not only made of nostalgia. It is a living part of the Princes' Islands, still inviting visitors to slow down and step into its distinctive rhythm.
Heybeliada and Its First Impressions
Those familiar with the island know that the Maritime High School is among the first landmarks to greet you. This building, tied to the dreams and secrets of many young people, still stands with quiet dignity. If you pass the cafés and restaurants and take the road to the right of the pier, the trees and, in season, the wisterias welcome you next.
Heybeliada has monuments whose history can almost be felt in the air. Yet it is equally tempting to pause among the white daisies and colorful flowers instead of moving from building to building. Picnicking in these beautiful fields is forbidden, and perhaps rightly so: faced with such scenery, you may prefer to remain a respectful spectator rather than become part of it.
Historical Places in Heybeliada
The Holy Theological School of Halki is one of the island’s most striking landmarks. Many sources confirm that this monastery was founded by Patriarch Photius in the 9th century. The building later used as a monastery and church was founded in 1844 by Patriarch Germanos to educate clergymen. Until its closure in 1971, it trained almost 1000 clergymen. One of its lesser-known treasures is the library, with over 120,000 books covering Greek and Latin classics, Byzantine history, law, archaeology, and more. For background on the school, you can also consult Wikipedia’s Halki Seminary entry.
The Hellenistic Trade School, another historical building on the island, was opened in 1831 and had thousands of students. In the past, visits by students’ families were among the most important social events enlivening Heybeliada.
Other notable religious landmarks include the Christos (Makarios) Monastery on Makarios Hill, the Greek Orthodox Ayios Nikolaos Church built on the grave of Patriarch Samuel I, who died in 1775, and the Aya Yorgi (Saint George) Church, built over a high sea cliff. Because of its dramatic setting, Aya Yorgi is also called “Krimnos Precipise,” the monastery of the abyss.
The Heybeliada Sanatorium also belongs to the island’s layered history. Built to benefit from the island’s clean air, it once offered cure and hope to lung patients. Today it is closed, standing among the pines with peeling paint and mortar, as if exhausted by time.
Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar Mansion
One of the island’s most meaningful stops is the Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar Mansion, set near the top of Heybeliada and overlooking the graceful panorama of the island. The mansion was built by Hüseyin Rahmi in 1912 and has three storeys. The famous novelist lived here until his death in 1944. In those years, because roads were limited, he sometimes climbed to his house on donkey back.
Hüseyin Rahmi had first settled closer to the pier, but later chose to build this mansion higher up the hill to distance himself from neighbors he found troublesome. In 1964, the mansion was transferred to the Special Provincial Administration by his beneficiaries and then left to its fate. Many of the novelist’s belongings were damaged by neglect and pillaging. Later, through the personal efforts of some students, officials, and Mrs. Hatice Farsıkoğlu, the spouse of the district governor, part of the collection was repaired and refreshed, and the mansion opened as a home-museum.
Perhaps the most touching detail inside is the handiwork of Hüseyin Rahmi himself. Visitors can see embroideries, vignettes, and lacework crocheted by the novelist with the same delicacy he brought to his books.
Walking Down the Hills of Heybeliada
After leaving Hüseyin Rahmi Mansion, every downward step brings you closer to the pier. In spring, the scent of wisteria makes this walk especially memorable. Along the way, Heybeliada reveals more of the figures associated with its past.
İsmet İnönü, known as the “Second Man” in the country, had a charming pink-and-white house on the island. After falling ill with dysentery, he came to Heybeliada in 1924 on medical advice and stayed in this house, which had once belonged to a Greek family and which he later bought. He decided to purchase it in 1934 after spending holidays there. Atatürk bestowed the household goods needed by the İnönü family. Many years later, the family’s summer house was turned into a museum by the İnönü Foundation. There is also a small house belonging to Ahmet Rasim, though it was devastated through negligence.
If your Istanbul plans also include the historic peninsula, you may want to compare this quiet island atmosphere with landmarks such as the Blue Mosque or Topkapi Palace. The contrast makes Heybeliada feel even calmer.
Getting Around: Bicycles and Island Life
Do not be surprised by the sound of bicycle bells as you wander through the streets. On Heybeliada, where motor vehicles are banned, bicycles have long helped solve the transportation problem. The contrast between old, faded buildings and more modern villas may remind some visitors of the wider changes in Istanbul, yet on the island this contrast is softened by wisterias, huge trees, flowers, and birdsong.
One of the island’s most attractive qualities is its spirit of goodwill. People are generally eager to help. If you feel tired, you may look out for the phaetons once known as an essential transportation vehicle of the Princes’ Islands, though the ride is described as somewhat expensive. For current transport options to and around the islands, it is wise to check official operators such as Şehir Hatları.
Where to Eat and Stay in Heybeliada
For a fish meal and a restful break, you may enjoy one of the cafés and restaurants along the road on the right side of the pier. If choosing feels difficult, some suggested names are Halki, Ambrosia, and Mavi Restaurant for a fish feast. If you would rather sit with a well-steeped glass of tea, Bahar Café is mentioned as a pleasant option.
There are also small hostels on the island. If you want to stay somewhere historical, Halki Palace stands out. Estimated to have been built between 1852 and 1862, it was once occupied by students of the Hellenistic Trade School. The hotel still serves the island’s guests with care. As with any accommodation details, it is best to check the official site or current booking sources before planning.
Why Heybeliada Still Captivates
Heybeliada is not only a destination of monuments and former residents. It is an island of ferry anticipation, pine-scented roads, sea views, and quiet walks downhill toward the pier. Its churches, school buildings, sanatorium, mansions, and gardens all carry traces of different eras, but the island’s deeper appeal lies in the feeling it creates: a gentler pace, a softer soundscape, and a sense that Istanbul can still open into calm.
Whether you come for history, literature, flowers in spring, or simply the pleasure of the ferry ride itself, Heybeliada offers a memorable pause from the city.
